How does a Czech patriot honour the memory of their former president who recently passed away? According to my friends, the right thing to do is to drink black beer. And so I obliged, ordering a pint of black Kozel after a very cultural evening spent at the State Opera in Prague on Wednesday. If there is one thing I love about my fellow Czechs, it has to be the dark sense of humour.

From Wednesday to Friday this week, the Czech Republic declared three days of official state mourning after the death of Václav Havel, who had been the first president of democratic Czechoslovakia and, later, the Czech Republic. Havel was one of the few politicians who had actually earned genuine respect from people. He had been a playwright and had a certain way with the words, being able to express the nation’s mood and to inspire us to be better people, year upon year. During the Communist days, Havel had spent many years in prison for repeatedly speaking up against the regime; this was a man who was not afraid to make immense personal sacrifices for the freedom of his country, a man who stood up for what he believed in: “Truth and love will win over lies and hatred.” To me, personally, he represents this kind of hope that’s almost extinct in our society today, this hope that you don’t need to screw someone else in order to get ahead.

>>We thank you, Václav. <<
So on Thursday, me and my friends continued mourning, this time at Café Slavia, where Havel used to be a regular guest. The café is located right next to the National Theatre, and is a famous hangout for actors and anyone connected with the arts. The café was full of TV crews recording interviews with anyone and everyone who remembered Havel coming there, including the lady who works in the cloakroom. We ordered a Czech dessert called “rakvičky” -- I think it was translated on the menu as sweet caskets, but it literally means little coffins. It’s basically coffin-shaped meringue served with whipped cream. We stuffed our faces, we mourned, and we laughed. It all felt so appropriately Czech.

>> “Hope is not the belief that something will turn out well; hope is about believing that something is worth the effort regardless of how it will turn out.” A poster remembering Havel in the centre of Prague. <<

>> In Wenceslas Square, hundreds of people came to a light a candle for Václav Havel by the statue of St. Václav, the patron saint of Bohemia. It was all quite poignant, really, and I never use words like poignant. <<